Sunday 5 February 2012

Spiral Gully, Coire an t-Sneachda

The second day of the Lomond Mountaineering Club meet up in the Cairngorms, and with a better day of weather we headed back up the Cairngorm Ski Centre to go to Coire an t-sneachda again.

On the walk in there were some gusts of winds, not nothing like the day before and much better visibility all round. The downside of this is there were a lot of people out on the hill.

I was with Danny and Dave today and we decided to climb Spiral Gully, which is the longest of the gullies on the crag at about 200m long.

Danny lead the first pitch up to a good nut and a fixed peg. I took the second lead up through the narrows which is the crux of the climb managing to get a few good runners in before it. After the crux I found myself running short of rope and as the guide book suggested belays would be hard to find so I had a bit of a struggle trying to dig the ice out the cracks to find one. After managing to get a warthog hammered in I squeezed out a little more on the rope to reach a good crack in the final gully leading up to the joining of Crotched Gully. A couple of good nuts placed and I brought Danny and Dave up to join me.

Danny led off to try and find the way forward as this seems to be where the line becomes confusing and branches off to the right in a cleft between the two butresses. By this time it was getting late and we had passed the crux we decided to finish off up Crotched Gully into howling winds on the plateau above.
















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